Just as there are some undeservedly overlooked climbs, there are also some particularly star-studded ones. One of the biggest stars is, of course, the Stelvio, as Italy’s highest mountain road pass (2,757 metres high – see here) and one of the highest climbable passes in Europe, which has become a mecca for country cyclists.
Gavia and Mortirolo
But such mountains are also Gavia and Mortirolo. Gavia, like Stalevio, is famous for the Giro d’Italia. It stands out for its altitude (2621m), just behind the Stelvio. I wouldn’t say it’s difficult from Bormio, the 25.6km climbs 1404m, which is an average of 5.5%. Of course, averages are always very deceptive, we used to laugh at the steeper parts, “but this is a 5-6% hill”, while we were trudging along for kilometres at 8-10%, so don’t underestimate it, if only because of the distance. The other side is much harder, but the classic is the side towards Bormio, although I note that the Giro also tends to attack from the side towards Ponte di Legno.
The Mortirolo owes its fame to the Gavia, which, because of the constant weather uncertainty of the Girok in the 1980s, came into the picture in 1990, when it needed another pass nearby. This became the Mortirolo, the first super climb of the Giro. The Mortirolo can be climbed from three directions, the steepest from the NW, from Mazzo di Valtellina, it is 12.5 km, with an average of 10.5% and a gradient of 1300m. The Giro has only used this direction for the umpteenth time, initially 17km (6.7%) from Monno, but now it has become the classic
The two mountains are quite close to each other, the passes’ roads are practically parallel, so cyclists have long cycled them as a circuit, usually from Bormio. This makes it a 110km ride, with 2800m of climbing.
Gavia: long, but not bad
From Bormio, the Gavia seemed reasonable at first, while the classic circuit is the opposite, as the Mortirolo is the more difficult from the north, while the Gavia is the more difficult from the south. The 25 km from Bormio is a considerable distance, as you have to climb all the way up, which also has a mental aspect: you have to be mentally strong.
Once you’re beyond that, only the south face of Mortirolo is 900 m above sea level, and that’s half a foot away. The Gavia is not a very spectacular climb for the first half, it’s kind of a no, 3-5%, wide highway. The real climb starts after Santa Caterina, where the first serpentines appear. There’s even a pretty sign from there.
After Santa Caterina, the picture changes, with average kilometres on the serpentines and afterwards averaging around 8%, and then, as you leave the wooded section, some parts are even steeper. But the views also get better. The road goes steadily uphill and around 20km it turns into a minimally winding road, which I dislike very much.
When you get to the first shelter, you think it’s the end, but it’s not. From there it’s another 2.5 km, but it’s relatively smooth, you can even switch to a big plateau. This part, the sometimes undulating duck-curling road through the valley, is beautiful. It’s a good valley to photograph. Nice glaciers to see. The last few hundred metres will take a bit more of your heart and you’ll reach the top. The lodge is waiting, although rather expensive, but such are the stars.
Then you head down the other side. The south side immediately starts with a majestic view, and you instinctively slam on the brakes and stop as you see Lago Nero, the Black Lake, and from where you have a magnificent view of the valley and the road that winds through it. As you come out of the bends there is a tunnel, quite dark, this is where the hail caught us, for the sake of the scenery. As you continue along the uat, it gets very narrow all the way, you have to be very careful. It’s only 17km down, but it felt like more.
Mortirolo: The end from the south is very difficult
After Ponte di Legno there are many cycle paths, then the end of the road, which is how we reached the junction under Monno. A big sign announces Mortirolo. Although they say it’s not difficult from this direction, I wouldn’t say that. Immediately after the crossroads there are 8-10%, you reach the village, it doesn’t let up there either, in fact! Then the middle gets better, there are resting sections along the way, which is a lot, but the last 3 km is a challenge, 12-14%. The top of the mountain is nothing, a monument and a designer tin can, we didn’t spend much time up there.
Since we were going back to Bormio, we went down towards Grosio. From there we took the highway home. Which I really didn’t want to do as it kept climbing. There was a small saddle in it, there was 10-12% there.
We even got caught in the rain at the end of the ride, but I was glad we did this loop. It was an old debt to the two passes. Next time I’ll do the classic, much harder route, it was fine the first time, it wasn’t easy that way either.
Lake Cancano
From Bormio, you can not only reach Gavia and Mortirolo, but there are also some nice options. One is Lake Cacano, a reservoir with a dam, located NW of the town over a fantastic beautiful serpentine valley.
The road to get there is not long, 30 km round trip. the climb itself is 12 km, practically as soon as you get out of Bormio, it starts. It averages around 6-8%, the beginning is more of a straight run uphill, the end is an accordion-like serpentine with 17 switchbacks.
The lake and dam are further away from the top of the serpentine. When you reach the top, you have to cycle into the valley, it is relatively level, you cycle past another lake, then you see the huge dam, behind which (or behind 2 dams) is the turquoise blue water lake. To get to the dam is now only a gravel road, but it is worth the walk because the colour of the water and the dam are very beautiful and photogenic.
You can also go around the lakes, of course not with an outi, and you can also go to Livigno from here.
The Stelvio from Bormio
Naturally, the most famous ride from Bormio is the Stelvio. We’ve written all about the pass in our previous article, but let me remind you: at 2758m (Bormio 1250m), it’s the second highest pass in Europe and the dream of every cyclist. Many people come to Bormio just for that (as you may have read, there are still some interesting, iconic places and mountains here!).
The problem with the Stelvio is that the classic direction is not from Bormio but from Prato, but Bormio is a great place to stay and sleep. So, if you want to do the pass from the classic direction (above Prato) but want to stay in Bormio, you have to take the car and cross the pass. Or if you come from the south, you have to cross the Gavian or the Mortiro. Bormio is well hidden. Since we were in Bormio and since we had already done the classic route, we thought we’d check it out from the south, where we’d only come down so far.
Since we knew the way down, there were no big surprises, but we did notice from the start that the start was a bit of a drag. As soon as you start from Bormio, you’re immediately in the 8-10% range and it lasts until the first serpentines and tunnels. In the middle, after the tunnels, there’s a very spectacular serpentine here too, with lots of twists and turns, really amazingly beautiful. Once you get up that, you’re in a gentle valley from there, with a relatively easy section. I remembered that it was a hell of a ride coming down this one, because it’s relatively straight, transparent and steep enough to get you up to 80. As this section ends, the Umbrail pass and junction come up, and the last kilometres from here are pretty rough, specifically the last 2.5km at 10-12% all the way. However, the views towards Switzerland are phenomenal.
I’m not saying it’s not easier from this side. But I wouldn’t say easy, especially because of the first and last kilometres. Visually it doesn’t beat the other side, but it’s very nice. Still, nothing beats that classic 5km serpentine. There’s a reason the Stelvio is every cyclist’s dream. Everyone should see it once.
Comments