Winter is coming and the “official” cycling season is slowly coming to an end, but that doesn’t mean you have to stop riding. In fact, you don’t have to stop at all, because usually after a short break, you can start preparing for next year with great foundations, which is much better and more enjoyable to do outside than on rollers indoors.
As soon as the temperature reaches the bottom of their personal comfort zone, many people put away their bikes for next year, but they do it wrong for several reasons. A 10-14 degree, sunny, pleasant autumn-spring weather has a very positive effect on the body, circulation and general well-being. I think it is even better to ride at that temperature than 25-30 degrees. Of course, there is a huge difference between cold and cold: a cloudy 5 degrees (where the temperature feels about 2 degrees) is completely different from a sunny 10-12 degrees (where the same is 15-16 degrees).
So – above zero degrees – it can’t be cold enough to ride, just that you don’t have the right clothes. Unfortunately or thank God, Hungarian winters are getting warmer, but you can still run into nasty minus temperatures, rain, and unpleasant weather. A few years ago there was a winter when we rode in December at 18 degrees, but there were times when it rained for 2 weeks and it was 2-3 degrees. And it’s hard to calculate, but the trend is towards mild winters. Therefore, anyone who wanted to ride outside should be prepared for 2-3 degrees. Only the determined go out in minus temperatures (or those who are paid).
I usually ride outside at 2-3 degrees, but mostly in dry weather, so we can usually ride through the winter. There are few times these days when we can’t go out. This is the rain + cold combination. We used to say that we are not forced and no one pays us to cycle in 5 degrees in the rain 🙂 That’s why I encourage everyone to feel free to go out cycling in the fall and winter, up to the temperature that suits them.
In this article, I will take a look at what you need to pay attention to when cycling outdoors in the fall, winter and spring. First of all, I will talk about clothing, as this is the alpha and omega of cycling in the cold. Unfortunately, cycling outdoors can be quite expensive these days. Very expensive. (What isn’t expensive in the cycling industry?) And unfortunately, you can’t save money here, the manufacturer can’t make excuses in the cold.
I’m not sensitive to the cold, I can handle this relatively well (better than the heat), I would say that the really limit of really cold is around 5-6 degrees. It’s only worth going out colder than that in really good outfit, but 10-12 degrees can be harsh in certain circumstances. Therefore, if you really want to buy quality gear, it has a price. Anyone who has ridden in 2 degrees knows that it’s worth every penny if you don’t freeze.
About brands and values
Let’s start with one or two statements.
Since we will be talking about clothing, often with specifics, and someone has to manufacture it, it is sure that a specific brand will also be mentioned. In fact, I recommend the article for this reason, because it will be quite specific. However, you should know that no manufacturer pays me for this, this is not a PR article where – often undeservedly – certain brands and products are advertised. What I describe is all personal experience. Obviously, no guarantee can be made for anything, since the feeling of warmth is very subjective.
Since we will be talking about clothing, often with specifics, and someone has to manufacture it, it is inevitable that a specific brand will also be mentioned. In fact, I recommend the article for this reason, because it will be quite specific. However, you should know that no manufacturer pays me for this, this is not a PR article where – often undeservedly – certain brands and products are advertised. What I describe is all personal experience. Obviously, no guarantee can be made for anything, since the feeling of warmth is very subjective.
There are very good, warm, waterproof and breathable jackets, shoes, coats, you can wear them all day, but they prevent your movement, they are heavy, they usually don’t breathe, so they are not designed for sports. Even within the technical equipment for sports, there are thin, stretchy things that you can move well in, in fact, you should, because they are designed for that. As soon as you stop or don’t spin enough, you will get cold in them.
Only buy what you will use.
Basics: Really good technical clothing is very expensive. This article will primarily focus on these, as the cold is no joke. That’s why I always say that you should only buy clothing that you will actually use. The value invested and spent should always be compared to how much you will use it. If you go out twice a year in 2-4 degrees, it’s not worth buying an expensive winter coat. You can also solve this with a temporary one if you wear it underneath (but it doesn’t matter what you wear underneath). However, for those who use it a lot, it’s worth its weight in gold if you don’t freeze all the time.
In addition to the leading brands, there are also second and third lines, where you can get clothes with almost as good technical knowledge. These are not cheap either, but they cost significantly less. A Nortwave, Gobik, BL, Van Rysel (Decathlon) can be very good, these manufacturers can also produce good products.
What I can recommend, because I have tested and used them: Assos, Castelli, Santini, Sportful, Pissei. I have specific – often many years of – experience with these. I will mention Assos many times in the article, as well as Castelli, I use these the most. After many years of experimenting I settled on this. But I also have (and had) Santini and Sportful.
Unfortunately, all products from the Assos are very expensive, even at a discount. Although it is also true that there is indeed technical knowledge behind this that is ahead of others (which does not mean that it is not overpriced). An extreme example of this is the pad produced in the pants, which is the best in the world. What is incredible, but they still operate with sponge pads, but regardless of this, they are a completely different category, even compared to the best gels. Assos also seems unbeatable in winter stuff, their products lead high in all tests. The question is, is it worth it for you?
Castelli is an essential brand in cycling clothing. It is one of the great Italian manufacturers with a long history and experience. Unfortunately, it is not cheap either, but it is not yet at Assos level (although it is close to it today). The company has put on the table such basic, essential products as the Gabba and Perfetto jackets, which are essential in their category and have also set the direction for other brands.
But besides these, all the leading brands produce very good products. What I would also recommend for autumn and winter: Santini, Sportful. I had a winter jacket from Sportful, as well as from Santini, both were very warm. I use Pissei a lot, but unfortunately their winter stuff is made for the Tuscan winter and for me none of it worked. And I have never bought a winter one from Gobik, I assume based on the Spanish winter (I may not be right), it is similar to Pissei.
The main point is: find winter clothing that suits your budget and usage. If you can’t find a suitable one from these brands, then buy a less branded and cheaper one (unfortunately, you often have to pay for the brand, which – in the best case – has additional knowledge behind it). Decathlon is also unavoidable, as they get their stuff at dumping prices, so they are cheap, but that doesn’t mean they are necessarily bad. Some things I like, some I don’t. For example, one of my most comfortable shoes is Van Rysel and you can really buy quality autumn/winter stuff at Decathlon. I get more of my underwear from there. It’s another matter that the better decaf stuff isn’t cheap either (e.g. the shoes I have are 60.000 HUF – that’s a good price for a branded one…) and if you spend as much as you do, you might get something better for a little more. But I’m not sure.
Clothes are recommended according to temperature
Non-summer, but spring/autumn and winter) items are usually categorized by degrees. So for example, an autumn jacket is usually 7 – 15 degrees, a winter one can be 0-10 or -5 +5 degrees. This way everyone can decide what they want to use in their own climate.
Beyond the degrees, layering matters. That is, what layers to wear in what weather conditions. Today, thanks to the development of technical clothing, two layers are enough even in colder weather (unbelievable, but it’s true), but by changing layers we can adapt to different temperatures.
There are three layers of outerwear: base layer, middlayer, and top layer. In addition, you can use shells and vests. Accessories include gloves, shoes, and leggings.
Baselayer
A very important layer. Its role is to absorb sweat and conduct it towards the outer layer (which will then release it – if it does. If not, you will have a stewed effect inside). The base layer is a technical layer following the body’s contours. It is made of a wide variety of materials, most of which are now plastic, but for example there are also merino wool (excellent in very cold weather) and thinner ones made of plastic. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, for example merino wool is less breathable and does not wick away sweat as well, but it is the warmest.
However, the important thing about the base layer is how thick it is, how well it insulates, and what temperature it is recommended for. (And of course, its moisture-wicking ability.) This is important because an upper layer combined with base layer can be suitable for a temperature difference of up to 10-12 degrees. A transitional jacket with a warm merino base layer can be good up to 5-7 degrees, but for example, you can use it with a breathable, excellent autumn base layer in 12-16 degrees.
That’s why I think you need at least one very warm, well-insulated autumn layer and one lighter, technical autumn layer in your wardrobe.
To know what to use specifically: it’s worth looking at international tests. I use the following. For winter (deep winter) Assos 3/3 ultraz and a Castelli Flanders. The Castelli is much more airy, it can be worn in a wide variety of weather, not only in very cold weather, but also down to 5-10 degrees. As I wrote, you can also vary it here by wearing a very warm base layer with a transitional (5-15 degrees) jacket, then it can be good down to 2-3 degrees, maybe if you add a midlayer!).
The Assos Ultraz 3/3, on the other hand, is brutally warm, has a dense weave, and is only worth wearing below 5-6 degrees.
For the stronger autumn days, I have an Assos 2/3 and a Sportful bodyfit Pro and I also have several 1/3 bottoms. Base layers are the layer that you can buy very good ones for the price and value, there are many manufacturers that make very good ones, I also have some from Decathlon, they are great. You have to make sure that you always buy for the right temperature, be purposeful in the store!
Middlayer
Few companies produce middlayers, because up to 2-3 degrees – as I wrote – due to the development of technical items, two well-chosen layers are usually enough. However, a mid-layer increases variability. Basically, you need it in two cases: if it is really very cold and you don’t have a very good winter base layer or your jacket is not that warm. The other case: if you don’t want to buy a very warm winter jacket (because you don’t often go out in that cold), you strengthen it with a middlayer. There is also another case, but this is rarer: if it is not that cold (10-15 degrees), but it may rain when the temperature does cool down. In that case, you don’t buy a strong winter jacket, just, say, a wind- and waterproof top and a base layer, but the mid-layer will be useful against the cold.
I didn’t use a midlayer either, but I’m going to start this year, I bought an Assos RS. It’s tight, racefit, adheres well to your base layer and is very warm. Depending on what you wear on top, with a thin summer base layer it can go between 7-18 degrees.
Top layer
Well, this is the most important layer. You have to choose it well, because if you don’t wear it, you’ll either be cold or hot. The basic essence of the top layer is: wind and water resistance, as well as proper insulation and breathability. This is achieved with various super technical layers (since each condition requires different technical knowledge), which let moisture out (but not warm air!), but don’t let cold air in, so they breathe outwards. There are also various thermal layers that keep the cold out, and there are layers that don’t let water in. A good jacket has 2-3 such layers.
If you buy a jacket that doesn’t “breathe” enough, meaning it doesn’t let sweat out, you’ll get cold. Anyone who rides a lot in the cold knows that sweat is a big enemy if it stays inside. This is not a good idea at 2-5 degrees, because sooner or later everything will get wet and you’ll get cold in everything, so you can easily end up with a cold sore. That’s why the breathability of a winter jacket is very important.
There are several types of autumn/winter jackets depending on the temperature range. The simplest ones are long-sleeved jerseys. These are only good for keeping you warm, their temperature range is about 14-18 degrees. They are practically lined jerseys (at best with super technical fabrics, at worst with some kind of fleece material). This should be worn in September-October and March.
In the case of real winter jackets, the temperature range needs to be divided into two. This is because it is very difficult to ensure that something is just as good at 13 degrees in the sun as it is at 2-3 degrees (meaning: at 13 degrees in the sun, it shouldn’t be that hot, but at 3 degrees it should be warm and breathable.
Thetransitional jacket can be used between approx. 5 – 15 degrees.
They are already thick and have various super membrane layers. These should usually be used in cold weather. You have to pay attention to this temperature range, because most of your non-summer riding will take place within this range. So this is the most important thing. In addition, with the right baselayer the 5-15 degrees could be variable, you can push it out. When you buy this, make sure to buy something that really ventilates well. let the sweat out. Then you will really have a very versatile jacket.
For the transitional period: Gabba, Perfetto
I use the industry standard (if I may say so): Castelli Gabba RoS 2 and Castelli Perfetto RoS 2. The difference between the two is that the Gabba is short-sleeved, so it can be used in a fairly wide range, it can really be worn up to 15 – 18 degrees, but it also feels good at 10 – 12 degrees (with a short-sleeved warm base layer).
The Perfetto is the long-sleeved version of the Gabba, the factory recommends it up to 4-5 degrees, I’m not sure if it knows this, but it’s plenty good for 7-8 degrees (with warm underwear). I really like both of them because they’re incredibly versatile. The RoS means Rain or Shine. It’s significantly resistant to rain, completely windproof and, although not so well-lined, it’s quite warm. At the same time, it’s well ventilated in warmer weather. By the way, Castelli changed the cut of the Gabba and the Perfetto this year, it’s much more humane, so I used to need an XL, now I’m more of an L.
However, I think there are plenty of good jackets for this temperature range. Assos has them, but the Sportful Fiandre (Pro) is also good (a little tighter). Santini also has many such jackets. Or there’s the Pissei Primapelle. The point is to pay attention to technical solutions and it’s not a bad idea to have a short sleeve. The advantage of this is that you can use it in a wide range of ways with arm warmers. Sometimes you can be warm in long sleeves.
The deep winter jacket
Just a few people will probably need this, because this is an environment below 5/7 degrees, and few people go out there. But for those who go out, it is most important. The point here is the same as with 5-15 degree jackets: breathing, keeping the cold out, keeping the heat in. It is quite unbelievable, but the industry has reached the point where you can go out in 2-3 degrees in an almost paper-thin jacket with a warm undershirt underneath. For this, the outer layer itself needs to be very good. (And of course, let’s not forget that we are exercising, so the body produces heat, which warms us up in the first place! If we stand a lot, relax the pace or just ride for a longer time, this all changes, you immediately start to get cold in these!)
The biggest challenge of this layer is to be able to move properly in it, not to feel like a wrapped snowman. Winter cycling is much more “tight” anyway, a person who is dressed up and slightly restricted in their movement feels less comfortable in the saddle, and performs more difficultly.) In Hungarian: for this, it has to be thin enough, but you have to know the technical requirements. Most winter jackets are thicker, they really have the feel of a coat, that’s their disadvantage. Often such a jacket weighs half a kilo. However, there are some that work with 300 – 350 grams and – with a slight exaggeration – fit you like a stretch jersey. These days, they have very thin, but highly technical layers. That’s why they’re expensive. They’re thin and keep you warm.
I had Sportful, then Santini Vega Absolut for a long time, they were more of a jacket type, now I use Castelli (Ultimate). The tests currently show the Assos Winter Ultraz as the winner in this segment, but I am not willing to pay its price (unless it is discounted).
Castelli, on the other hand, has set an industry standard here as well. The Alpha RoS 2 and Alpha Doppio, as well as the Ultimate I use, do it all and are perhaps a little cheaper than the Assos Ultraz. The Castelli are two-layer, so when the jacket is opened, there is an inner, zip-up layer that warms and lets moisture out, and the water and windproof layers are in the outer layer. These jackets already do a lot, are less heavy, but they are also quite expensive.
Waterproof and windproof shells and vests
A very useful outer layer. Although most autumn and winter items are windproof and mostly (to some extent) waterproof, they are primarily designed against the cold, not for the rain. Of course, this is primarily needed by those who walk a lot in wet weather. For those who don’t, this is unnecessary (in winter), as any good outer layer can withstand at least half an hour in the rain. Regardless, these accessories are very useful, they are important wardrobe items, as you can use them not only in winter or autumn, but also in summer.
A fully waterproof rain jacket is usually a practical, small pack that can fit in your pocket and be taken out at any time. These function as a kind of outer shell. Their essence is that they provide little or no insulation, but protect against rain (and wind). There is nothing worse than getting soaked in 5-7 degrees, I don’t need to say that.
A vest is also very important, it primarily has a windproof effect. As with a waterproof jacket, it is important that it does not insulate, but it does have some level of wind resistance: since it keeps the cold wind out, it seems warmer inside.
I use Castelli for vests, I have a breathable Castelli Aria summer vest and a Perfetto vest for fall and spring. By the way, the Aria is absolutely incredible: it’s really paper thin, the back is completely transparent, but when you put it on it improves the feeling of warmth a lot. The Perfetto vest helps a lot in fall and spring.
I chose the Gore Shakedry waterproof shell and I was right! The completely waterproof, Gore-Tex membrane jacket can be folded into a fist, it’s just a thin shell, but no matter how wet you get in it, you can be sure that you’ll stay dry on top. It’s one of my most useful and versatile pieces of clothing. It’s true, I use it more in the summer in the mountains, but if necessary, it can be worn over anything in the fall and winter. The only downside is that it’s expensive.
My other waterproof jacket is a Santini Guard Neoshell. I use this in autumn – spring and occasionally in winter (Santini recommends it between 0 – 10 degrees), because in addition to being waterproof, it has a minimal Polartech and Neoshell layer, which makes it good up to 8 – 10 degrees with a very thin underlayer and a midlayer. And if I wear even more underlayer, it’s okay in colder weather. It’s also great in summer, when the conditions in the mountains are cooler, because not only is its waterproof layer excellent, but it also keeps you warm.
Trousers
Trousers are a basic issue, but not nearly as important as the layers above. Since we are cycling, the legs are moving, the muscles are working, and they generate heat, so the legs are less likely to get cold. Nevertheless, we should pay attention in colder weather and wind, because surprises can come our way. Especially in the knee area. The knees tend to get cold, so buy something that is reinforced there. The other sensitive area is the groin. You move less there, so it can get cold in the cold.
In the case of trousers, I would like to point out that it is worth buying ¾ trousers, they have a short period of wearability, but they can be very useful: when you get cold in a short time, but it’s not that cold yet (this is usually September – October and March – April here) . The advantage is that they are warmer and protect the knees.
I wear a very thin long-sleeved shirt (Pissei) and an Ekoi in the transitional weather. And in the really cold weather, I wear a Rapha Pro Team II and a Castelli Sorpasso, both of which provide very good protection.
Glove
It is essential. In the cold, you will feel cold in two places first: your hands and feet. There are many manufacturers of good gloves, I would not even single out a manufacturer here. I use several types of gloves, for a while a Castelli Perfetto RoS 2 and a Reckl. For extreme cold, I have tried many things, but I have not found the final solution yet. Maybe I will try an Assos or a Castelli. Some people ride in ski gloves, that is also a solution. My experience is that sooner or later your hands will start to feel cold in the cold, no matter what you wear.
The point is, don’t spare on gloves. Have two: one for the winter and one for the cold. Unfortunately, you can’t avoid having gloves for the cold that are thick, which makes it harder to cycle in, but something for something.
Footwear
One of the tricky points of winter clothing. Most people get cold on their feet and toes first. On the other hand, once you start, your shoes are the first place you get wet. There’s not much you can do about that, because the rain doesn’t get through the surface of your shoes, but rather flows in from above and from below: the front wheel pushes it up.
Many people swear by the combination of summer shoes + warm overshoes. It’s understandable in a way, since buying separate winter shoes is an expensive affair. Since I’ve used this combination, I think it can save about 5-7 degrees (for me), provided that the overshoes are really warm. However, in colder weather, summer shoes + overshoes are no match for winter shoes. You can wear them, but sooner or later you’ll get cold in them. After two hours of riding in two or three degrees, you’ll get cold even in winter.
Unfortunately, the bad news is that winter shoes are expensive, so not everyone can afford them. However, if you buy them, they are almost certainly Gore-text, so they don’t get wet through the surface, they are lined, and they are warm. The bad news is that in my experience, even the best winter shoes can get cold if you spend too much time outside. The cold will take care of everything sooner or later. They can also get wet (as I wrote, not through the surface). You may need a waterproof overshoes to prevent this.
I’ve had several winter shoes, some worked, some didn’t, now I have a Fizik Tempo Artica R5, fluffy inside, very warm shoes. Despite that, I use gaiters in colder weather, mainly against water. No matter how much Gore-tex, water gets in through the top of every shoe.
Good advice
Don’t look at the temperature, but at the feeling of temperature!
One indicator of the weather is the temperature, but you should know that even though the thermometer shows that the sun is shining outside, e.g. 15 degrees, it can actually be colder outside (if there is a strong wind, for example). Or vice versa: if it is 12 degrees outside, but the sun is shining, you will feel much warmer. Clothes are designed to feel warm. Adjust to this.
Always dress so that you are a little cold when you start!
This is a rule, because if you don’t do this, you’ll overdress and get hot and sweaty. If you’re a little cold at the beginning, that’s a good thing, you’ll warm up as you ride.
Temperature rule for clothes
A -5 jacket is more like 0 or 2 degrees. What they say is 5 degrees is more like 8. Always recalibrate the data a little. Manufacturers are interested in indicating the lowest possible temperature, but experience shows that these are usually not accurate. They often already include the thicker undergarment. On the other hand, everyone feels different.
Buy winter clothes at the end of winter!
If you’re smart, you’ll buy at a third or half price. Major manufacturers always discount their products on their own websites at the end of winter, so this is the time to buy!
Don’t ride for long in the cold.
Of course, who considers what a lot? And how much can someone tolerate the cold? In very cold weather, 1 – 1.5 hours, in mild weather, two hours. In 3 – 4 hours, you will get cold even in most technical stuff. In winter (in cold weather), that’s more than enough.
Three things that you can almost always wear to go out in Hungarian conditions
This is difficult, but if you are planning to about 5-6 degrees, I would say a quality base layer, a midlayer and a good transitional jacket. Assos Ultraz or 3/3 winter base layer, Assos midlayer and Castelli Perfetto or Assos winter evo jacket. With this you can go out in almost any conditions.
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